State Agora in Ephesus

GPS coordinates: 37.936363, 27.344286

Archaeological site: 

State (Upper) Agora in Ephesus
State (Upper) Agora in Ephesus

Description: 

This text is a fragment of a guidebook to Ephesus: "The Secrets of Ephesus".

In every significant ancient settlement founded by the Greeks, the main square called the agora played the central role in the life of the city. Ephesus had two agoras - a political one and a commercial one - situated at opposite ends of the city. The spacious State (Upper) Agora was situated in the south-eastern part of Ephesus, while the Commercial Agora - in the north-western part of the city. As it is also the case of the Lower Agora, also this square was created in the location of an old necropolis - the fact demonstrates how quickly the city had expanded beyond the previously planned boundaries.

The original plan of the State Agora dates back to the 4th century BCE when it was created on the area of an older cemetery. It has been confirmed by archaeological excavations carried out in its north-eastern corner. Numerous graves from the 7th and the 6th centuries BCE were found there, along with an archaic sarcophagus of terracotta. The Upper Agora received its urban character between the Hellenistic and the early Roman period. The square was paved around 65 BCE by Timon, the agoranomos, i.e. the market overseer. Finally, it was renovated at the beginning of the 1st century CE.

The State Agora served as a place for official and public meetings. It has dimensions of 160 by 73 meters, and it was once surrounded on three sides by colonnades. The western side was bordered by an ashlar wall, against which several monuments were erected on the eastern side of the Domitian Square. The stoas served as roofed walkways, lavishly decorated with sculptures, and they provided shelter from rain and heat. These stoas were not only ideal for the citizens who wished to discuss politics, but also played the role of classrooms where teachers and philosophers could gather their students.

The northern colonnade is often referred to as the Stoa Basilica due to its impressive design. This two-storeyed structure had two aisles and a central nave, divided by two rows of columns in Ionic order with bulls' heads on two sides. There is a reason for this peculiar design: the bull's heads lengthen the support for the architrave, making it possible to place the columns holding up the roof of the stoa over five meters apart. Moreover, the bull's heads emphasised the hall's sacred aura, documenting that the basilica also served as a place of worship.

Bull's Head Capital, Roman, early 1st century CE, made of marble, from the Stoa Basilica, now in Ephesos Museum in Vienna
Bull's Head Capital, Roman, early 1st century CE, made of marble, from the Stoa Basilica, now in Ephesos Museum in Vienna

In total, there were 67 such columns, situated along the basilica that was 168 meters long and 16 meters wide. The entrances were through the long side facing the agora. The stoa was erected in 11 CE and later modified. The sponsor of the stoa was again C. Sextilius Pollio who dedicated it to Artemis, Augustus, and Tiberius. The dedicatory inscription was written both in Greek and in Latin.

Basilica Stoa in Ephesus
Basilica Stoa in Ephesus

The statues of Emperor Augustus and his wife Livia stood at the eastern entrance to the basilica, in the special room used as the ceremonial hall. The hall was demolished in the early Byzantine period, and the statues were 'Christianised' by carving a cross on their foreheads. Now, these statues can be seen in the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk.

Statue of Emperor Augustus, now in the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk
Statue of Emperor Augustus, now in the Ephesus Museum in Selçuk

The Chalcidium (a vestibule) was added to its western side during the reign of Emperor Nero. While in the late Roman Imperial period, additional columns with Corinthian capitals were added between the original Ionic ones, to offer extra support. This impressive basilica replaced an earlier, Hellenistic single-aisled stoa, situated 1.3 meters below, as confirmed by the excavations. The basilica stoa was, most probably, the place of municipal activities, such as court proceedings or public meetings, due to its proximity to the Prytaneion.

Chalcidium
Chalcidium

While most of the visitors only stroll along the northern side of the State Agora, it is also possible to walk along its southern edge, where the traces of the Southern Stoa and the Magnesia Road can be seen. Moreover, this part of the ancient city is an oasis of peace and quiet, even on the busiest days.

Southern Stoa
Southern Stoa

The construction of the Southern Stoa took place in the first half of the 2nd century BCE, but by the late 6th century at the latest, the stoa was destroyed. When it still existed, it was a two-story hall, around 160 meters long. Later, it was shortened when a small gate building was added in the south-eastern part of the Upper Agora. Possibly at the same time, the Upper Agora also received a monumental new entrance, located in the middle of the back wall of the hall.

The southern side of the State Agora was separated from the road to the Magnesian Gate by a colonnade facing a solid wall. In the south-eastern corner of the agora, there was a large cistern for the water brought by the Marnas supply system. The water was later distributed throughout the city through the terracotta pipes, discovered under the agora. The south-western corner of the agora was occupied by a magnificent fountain of Laecanius Bassus.

Along the Magnesian Road, running parallel to the southern stoa, approximately halfway between the corners of the State Agora, stood another monumental fountain of the city. The road is still there, paved with slabs and lined with columns. The lower part of the fountain was erected of stones and the upper part - of bricks. A semispherical niche is still visible in the back of the structure. The front of the nymphaeum, visible from the Magnesian Road, is semicircular in plan and built of ashlar stones. The vantage point next to this ruined fountain offers excellent views of the State Agora, the bouleuterion, and the prytaneion, with the Pion Hill in the background.

One of the main buildings on the State Agora was an impressive temple, dating back to the 1st century BCE. It stood to the west from the centre of the square and measured 49 to 22 meters. It is commonly called the Temple of Isis, but the more careful archaeologists just describe it as the Temple on the State Agora. As it is also the case of the so-called Serapis Temple of Ephesus, the exact nature of the deity worshipped here has not been clearly identified.

Temple on the State Agora
Temple on the State Agora

The temple was excavated in 1970 when its original plan was revealed. It was built on the ten by six Ionic columns plan of 23 to 15 meters podium, and its façade was adorned with a group of statues depicting the meeting of Odysseus with Polyphemus. This is the same decoration that was later removed and placed in the area of the Pollio Nymphaeum. The dating of the temple itself was based on the dating of these statues that represent the style of the 1st century BCE.

The identification of the temple with the cult of the Egyptian goddess Isis was concluded on the basis of the artefacts discovered within its area. These objects include a statue of Ammon, bells symbolising Isis, and a marble portrait of Mark Antony, known from his pro-Egyptian tendencies.

However, the most recent belief is that the temple was erected later, during the reign of Emperor Augustus or Tiberius, around 10-15 CE. This new interpretation, presented on the information board on-site, claims that the temple was a sanctuary of the Association of the Roman Citizens (Conventus Civium Romanorum). It was erected in honour of Divus Caesar and Dea Roma or of Augustus. The building was torn down on the orders of the Emperor Theodosius in the 4th century in the course of alterations which were made in the State Agora.