The first time I read about Çatalhöyük was a very long time ago, in Margaret Oliphant's book "The Atlas of the Ancient World", published in 1993. However, it would take 20 years before I was able to visit this extraordinary place in person. In 2013, the time came for my imagination to confront reality, and I could finally walk on the double mound that conceals traces of a settlement from over nine thousand years ago.
I had prepared myself thoroughly for my visit to Çatalhöyük, and my knowledge of the place was reinforced by reading the book "Çatalhöyük. The Leopard's Tale" by the then head of the Çatalhöyük archaeological mission, Ian Hodder. However, a certain shadow of anxiety was stirred in my consciousness by the description of Çatalhöyük presented in one of the chapters of Steven Mithen's book "After the Ice". In this book, Çatalhöyük is painted in dark colours, as a place with a depressing and anxiety-provoking atmosphere.
Finally, after many days of travelling through Turkey, my family and I reached the entrance gate to Çatalhöyük. The beautiful spring weather chased away all fears caused by Mithen's vision, and we set off impatiently to meet the traces of an ancient civilization. Many guidebooks describe Çatalhöyük as a place where there is basically not much to see, but I would like to disagree with this opinion - the site is perfectly prepared to welcome travellers, including those who did not know much about Çatalhöyük before their visit. Of course, prior substantive preparation is highly recommended, but it is definitely not necessary in order to experience an interesting adventure with archaeology in Çatalhöyük.
Historical overview:
Çatalhöyük Hill is actually made up of two mounds. The more famous of them, called the Eastern Mound, shows traces of settlement from the Neolithic period. To put it roughly, the settlement in Çatalhöyük existed on the Eastern Mound from 7400 to 6000 BCE. The mound consists of 18 levels of settlement: its inhabitants decided to abandon their old houses, filled them in and built new houses directly above the old ones. The Western Mound has a later origin because the remains discovered there have been dated "only" to the Copper Age, i.e. to the period from 6000 to 5500 BCE.
Contrary to the speculations of the discoverer of Çatalhöyük - James Melaart - it is currently believed that there were no public buildings in Çatalhöyük, and the entire settlement consisted of residential houses. These buildings were directly adjacent to each other, and the inhabitants of the settlement walked on their roofs. Access to the houses was provided by roof openings and ladders and stairs leading to the interior of the rooms. It is estimated that Çatalhöyük could have been inhabited by as many as 10 thousand people, but the number of inhabitants of the settlement most often ranged from 5 to 8 thousand.
The interior of a typical house in Çatalhöyük consisted of a main room, in which there were hearths and fireplaces. In this room, the most important household activities were performed, while sitting on raised platforms. The walls and platforms were carefully plastered and then adorned with paintings. They depicted animals, phallic symbols, and hunting scenes. In addition, the interiors of the houses were decorated with bas-reliefs.
The famous Seated Woman figurine also comes from Çatalhöyük. It is characterized by a striking resemblance to later representations of the Anatolian mother goddess Cybele. This figurine, as well as many other exhibits from Çatalhöyük, can now be seen in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara.

In addition to the main room, the houses of Çatalhöyük had additional, smaller rooms, most likely serving as pantries and storages. They were entered through low openings in the walls of the main room.
An interesting, although probably shocking for many people, practice was the custom related to the burial of the deceased. In Çatalhöyük, the deceased were placed in baskets or wrapped in mats, and then buried within the settlement, and even inside the houses: under floors, hearths, and platforms. There is evidence of later extraction of remains for ritual purposes, for example a skull was removed from the burial site, which was then covered with clay and painted in order to recreate the appearance of the deceased's face.
Studies of the houses at Çatalhöyük show that there was no clear division into different social classes in the settlement. The studies of the human remains found there have shown little social differentiation by gender: for example, both women and men were equally well-nourished.
The economy of Çatalhöyük was based on agriculture and livestock breeding, as well as hunting and gathering. In the area around Çatalhöyük, wheat, barley, and peas were grown. Almonds, pistachios, and various types of fruit were obtained from nearby groves. In addition to domesticated sheep, there are traces of the beginnings of cattle breeding. The main branches of crafts in Çatalhöyük were pottery and the production of obsidian tools. Obsidian objects were also the subject of barter: they were exchanged for shells from the Mediterranean coast and flint from Syria.
The significance of Çatalhöyük
Until the mid-20th century, the prevailing scientific belief was that the area known as the Fertile Crescent, which stretched from Egypt through Palestine and Syria to Mesopotamia, was of exceptional importance. It was believed that this was the area where the first agricultural settlements were established and where the first sheep and goats were domesticated. This area did not include Anatolia because it was believed that the extremely low winter temperatures made this area inhabitable by the first farmers. It was the excavations at Çatalhöyük that revolutionized this belief, as they revealed the existence of a large Neolithic settlement outside the supposed cradle of civilization in the Near East.
It is now known that Çatalhöyük is not an exception, but is actually a part of a vast network of Neolithic settlements in Anatolia. According to dating, it turned out to be a relatively young settlement: many older settlements have been found in eastern and central Asia Minor, including Aşıklı Höyük, Pınarbaşı, and Boncuklu. Moreover, it was not an exceptionally large settlement either, as the centres inhabited by larger populations have been found in both Anatolia and the Levant.
However, the latest archaeological research does not diminish the importance of Çatalhöyük. Its discovery has forever changed the way we think about the first cities in human history, denying the uniqueness of the Levant. The wealth and vastness of the site in Çatalhöyük are an invaluable resource, allowing for a more in-depth understanding of the lifestyle in a Neolithic agricultural settlement. In addition, the paintings found on the walls of buildings in Çatalhöyük constitute an unparalleled source of knowledge about the art of this period of human history.
Despite many years of archaeological work, only 5% of the settlement area has been excavated by researchers so far. This means that when walking around the Çatalhöyük mound, you walk over thousands of as yet unexcavated houses, which may hold groundbreaking information and fascinating secrets.
Due to its great historical significance, Çatalhöyük was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2012. The justification for this decision states that Çatalhöyük is a unique testimony to the moment in history when the first agricultural settlements were established in central Anatolia, which then transformed into urban centres based on egalitarian principles.
Archaeological research:
Çatalhöyük is often described as having been "discovered" in 1952 by British archaeologist James Melaart. However, the existence of this mound was not previously a secret to the locals, who gave it the name meaning "Fork Hill". This name most likely derives from the fact that the road leading to Çatalhöyük from the city of Çumra branches off at the mound in three directions.
The scientific community first learned of Çatalhöyük in 1952, when James Melaart and David French were conducting reconnaissance on the Anatolian Plain. They were drawn to its distinctive mound, which loomed over the plains around Konya. However, systematic research at Çatalhöyük did not begin until 1958, when Melaart and his colleagues discovered fragments of sun-baked brick buildings and Neolithic pottery inside them.
From 1961 to 1965, Melaart led a team of archaeologists at Çatalhöyük. The focus at that time was on the Eastern Mound, although two excavations were also carried out in the Western Mound area. Melaart’s team’s work was extensive and fast-paced, but it was abruptly interrupted in 1965 by a scandal in which Melaart was accused of illegally taking artifacts out of Turkey and, as a result, expelled from the country.
The Çatalhöyük site remained abandoned for nearly 30 years. It was not until 1993 that work was resumed by an international team of researchers led by another Briton, Ian Hodder. His research approach differed significantly from Melaart’s: rather than excavating as much ground as possible, Hodder’s team focused on in-depth study of the relatively small fragments of Çatalhöyük that were discovered, using the latest technological advances.
It is worth mentioning that, since 2001, a team of Polish archaeologists from the Institute of Prehistory of Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań and the Institute of Archaeology of the University of Gdańsk was involved in the work at Çatalhöyük. This team, known internationally as "Team Poznan", was led by Professor Arkadiusz Marciniak and Professor Lech Czerniak. In 2013, the world was informed of a sensational discovery made by the Polish team in Çatalhöyük - the archaeologists managed to find the largest amount of grain from the Neolithic period in a perfect state of preservation known so far in the Middle East.
In early 2014, a very interesting work was published, "Identifying the Volcanic Eruption Depicted in a Neolithic Painting at Çatalhöyük, Central Anatolia, Turkey", describing research on one of the Neolithic paintings at Çatalhöyük. The authors of the article argue that this painting is, in fact, the oldest-known map in the world.
The Hodder-led excavations ended in 2018. New excavations in Çatalhöyük are being directed by Ali Umut Türkcan from Anadolu University.
Sightseeing:
The designated sightseeing tour of Çatalhöyük leads through the area of the Eastern Mound. To the left of the entrance gate, there is a replica of a Neolithic dwelling. This house was built in 1999, using building materials available to the prehistoric inhabitants of the settlement. In 2001, the interior of the house gained additional furnishings. The purpose of this Experimental House is to test the theories about various aspects of everyday life in the Neolithic era. Additionally, the building is a great attraction for visitors, who can easily imagine what life was like in Çatalhöyük.
Behind the reconstructed house stands a building housing the Visitors' Centre. This room serves to introduce the phenomenon of Çatalhöyük to tourists and school groups. It contains many colourful information boards and photos from the excavations. Several decorative motifs and reliefs have been painted on the walls of the Centre, which are copies of patterns found in the houses of Çatalhöyük.
Unfortunately, the objects exhibited in the display cases are only the replicas of the original finds. To see the most important Neolithic objects excavated at Çatalhöyük, you should go to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara and the Archaeological Museum in Konya.
From the Centre, the path leads uphill to the so-called Northern Shelter, a modern structure built in 2008 that protects the site from external factors. Inside, you can see the remains of numerous excavated buildings from 8,800 years ago. Their floors and wall fragments are visible, as well as hearths, burial chambers, and wall decorations.
Behind the Northern Shelter, the tour route passes the highest point of the hill and descends to the so-called South Shelter from 2003, passing the area of former excavations along the way. Inside the South Shelter, there is a viewing terrace from which you can watch the excavation carried out by archaeologists. The deep excavation revealed the remains of residential houses. On the wall of one of them, a famous painting of a volcano was found, which was recently tentatively recognized as the oldest-known map in the history of mankind.
On the way back you pass a hill which is actually a dump of earth from excavations carried out in the 1960s, and then you reach the entrance gate. The Western Mound area is not open to visitors.
Visitor tips:
The Çatalhöyük archaeological site is open to visitors all year round, from 8:00 to 17:00. In 2025, the ticket costs 5 euros.
Getting there:
If you are driving a car from Konya, take road 715 towards Karaman. About 60 km south of Konya, in Içeriçumra, turn east to Çumra, 12 km from the junction. There are many new signposts in Çumra leading to Çatalhöyük. The distance from the centre of Çumra to Çatalhöyük is about 20 km to the north-east. Leave your car in the car park in front of the gate leading to Çatalhöyük.
If you do not have a car, there are several daily minibuses from Konya to Karkın. Get off early in the village of Küçükköy and then walk the 1 km from the village to the Çatalhöyük site. The last option is taking a taxi from Konya.
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